Thunderstorms for days… Walking the main street of Ao Nang Beach, past the many vendors sheltering in their stores or under their canopies… Drawn to the ocean that was gray and frothy with the winds whipping at the wave crests. I sat there for quite a few hours staring out of the ocean, feeling primally alive, fierce and calm. There are those of us that are drawn to be near the ocean in a storm, and truthfully, I thought I would see more of us there over those few days. But having such a vast and popular beach to myself was a privilege that only heightened my sense of gratitude, reflection, and inner strength. I think it’s good for the soul to be on one’s own from time to time, as long as the internal and external conditions are right. And for me they were… I honestly don’t know why the ocean has often been a soothing place for me. Whether I was sailing or doing water sports in my youth or taking every opportunity to get on somebody’s boat or just sitting oceanside whenever possible, it has always been one of the places where I can let go of the idea of me. Perhaps it’s the immense power and the changeability or volatility that reminds me no matter what I have inside my mind or in my history, this source of nature is much bigger than me and has been there for all of my ancestors and, if I have any descendants beyond my sons, it will still be there for them too. So that’s how I arrived in Krabi, Thailand…starting my time in a beach town where I have the beach to myself, being thoroughly, delightfully drenched by the warm rain, mesmerized by the gray green ocean.
In those days when the rains were insistent, I walked along the beach to a traditional Thai massage spa I found, enjoying the ritual of walking the beach and the sidewalks by myself. And when the sun came out to play, so did everybody else.. my walk to massage was now infused with the beach town vibes that I have known and loved around the world. Hearing Marley and reggae played from various vendors, half naked people jumping on scooters or buying sarongs while they drink coconut water from the coconut, the occasional local napping in a hammock between palm trees, scooter taxi drivers gathering together for a shared lunch… The vibe was absolutely familiar and of course a little bit different… Whether I’ve been in Hawaii or California, Tofino or Portugal, Australia or Mexico, there’s always that undertone vibe that comes from people meeting where the sun and the ocean create magic that mixes with the local culture. Here in Krabi, that meant long tail boats with long arm putt putt motors taking people out to different islands, the food fusion aromas of a lot of Northern and Southern Indian food like Masala and Palak Paneer mingling with chicken satay and the occasional waft of fresh fruit as I walk past the dozens of smoothie stands.
At the beginning of my trip in Vietnam, I was on a bus being transported between Ha Long Bay and Hanoi. I had a fantastic conversation with a young woman from India named Aahana discussing all the deeper questions about life, what it means to be a woman, what it means to be academic or intellectual, what our moral responsibilities are to ourselves and each other…it was great. The odd synchronicity of that exchange was that I had been on a bus at her age, traveling between the French Alps and London, where a middle-aged woman started a conversation with me that went for the entire journey and helped me realize that my voice was important. It was a little odd for me to recognize that I was now the middle-aged woman, telling Aahana that story so that one day when she was a middle-aged woman sitting on a bus, she may strike up a conversation with a young woman to discuss important things. Odd synchronicity has continued to appear through my journey, and another happened recently that I thought too good not to share. On one of my stormy strolls, I had been musing about that French bus ride, leaving my year in the Alps behind, and remembering how I missed French Alpine sensibility with an ease of conversation and an element of refinery; I also thought that I wish I could speak with an expat who had no vested interest in sending me to any tour or excursion so that I could get an unbiased opinion on the area. On my first sunny day walk to my traditional massage, they needed me to get some cash, and asked me to go to their friend’s cafe next door where I could exchange cash for free. At this point my friend, I’m sure you’re not going to be surprised to read that it was a Parisian cafe operated by Simon from Paris and his wife Mai from Krabi…Their cafe is named Maison de Paris…of course. There I was, happy and aglow from having more scar tissue broken down by a serious Thai massage, sipping on an ice latte and having a petit vanilla meringue, basking in the sun filtered through palm fronds on the front patio, listening to Edith Piaf and Parisian cafe music as Simon and I discussed all things Thailand, France and French Alps, and travel culture. When he learned where I was from he directed my attention to the TV up on the wall behind him and I could not control my giggles… There I watched the montage of Vancouver, the Rockies, Jasper, Stanley Park etc. For months prior to my trip, I had all the locations I planned to visit scroll across my computer screen saver…now here I was in one of those places watching a similar montage, but of my home. As we talked about where he’s from, it turned out his family is from the French Alps, and he knows well the area that I had been living in. So my dear reader, my friend, I now have a long list of recommendations and established routine of walking along the beach to my favourite massage and my favourite Parisian cafe and I’m really beginning to feel like I’m in flow of things now. I went to Railay Beach on their recommendation, it was epic…So on that note, for now… adieu 😉
Photo Gallery: Ao Nang beach in stormy weather, and in sunny weather, Harry, Simon, Mai, Meilee and Eye(my Thai Masseuse), the best salad I’ve had outside Tofino, my walk home and the boat on the way to Railay Beach
Photo Gallery: Proof of life(some of you have sent DMs asking for more “me” pictures), my hangout table at Railay Beach at sunset, cheeky monkeys, a spot the monkey picture for all my puzzle loving friends, and more Railay Beach.
anilā travels 